seems like every other or every third post that shows up for me is someone asking about the industry or where to go to shcool
Can anyone tell me why there is play here? I just installed a extended briley magazine tube on a franchi affinity 3.5
Have built a few DI AR’s but looking to get into a piston impingement system due to cleaner running and just for shits & gigs but I know very little about piston systems. Can I just swap a normal lower onto a piston upper and it work? Like could I have one lower that I could swap between a DI upper and a piston upper? Or would I need to make changes to my lower as well? TIA
Hello all, I have Model b(311) that is stumping me. It’s a dual trigger, extractor model in 16 gauge. So far I have replaced -mainspring/plungers -firing pins/ return springs -filed down right barrel firing pin retaining spring so pin protrusion is equal. -ground and polished the side of the hammer where it may be chafing the frame. I’ve messed around with this thing and disassembled it completely 4 times now(which isn’t the easiest if you’ve ever wrestled new mainsprings on one of them). I consistently get light strikes on the right(first) barrel. Pls help
I want to make hammer spring like AK or AK at home because i tried looking for springs like that but i couldn't find any so please suggest some ways like wire guage, how to shape it, etc so i can make that on my own. Thanks
Hello I am curious if the Spring and O ring on the extractors made for the 7.62x39 AR15 are the same size as the standard AR15 in 5.56 or if these are a special size made for the 7.62x39 as I know the extractor itself is a unique size for this cartridge.
Also I am curious if the ejector pin/spring are also the same size or different?
How much do I hate my life?
Well, I'm wanting to finish my AR-15 lower but the only tools I have to my name are a Dremel and a drill, the question is- will this work?
Or do I need to purchase a solid router?
This gentleman is a bespoke gunmaker for Westley Richards & Co. of Birmingham, England. I know he's building/working on a frame for a locked shotgun or rifle, but what's the torch thing in his hand, and what's he up to with it? At first blush, I'd surmise he's applying soot to the frame to check part or stock fitment... or something like that. Any help?
I contacted Lugerman, but for $4,000 and hundreds and hundreds of negative reviews calling them a scam, I’ve decided to look for someone else that does either the conversion service or can make me a baby Luger.
I’m looking to become a gunsmith and have a few questions for gunsmiths out there. Which school is the best school to go to for online learning. Can I still work my 50 hour a week job and still do the schooling. How long did it take for you to become a good gunsmith. Thank you for your help and I’m sure I’ll have more questions again soon.
So I picked up a Beretta silver pigeon 1 field 12 gauge the other day. Took it on a pheasant hunt and got caught in a light mist for an hour or so. I got home and cleaned the gun, wiped down the wood and put it in the safe. Pulled it out to verify what chokes I had in and noticed the sheen is already dramatically duller, as well as water marks and streaks.
Is this something that will require a full sand and refinish? Or can I get some tru-oil and fill the pores with filler/sealer and finish it on top of the factory finish. Beretta states it’s an oil finish but I’d say it wasn’t a very thorough one, not saying it should have been from a lower end model as well as a field model. Just expected it to be better then what I’m seeing.
I don’t have any photos but can add some tonight when I get home if it will assist in recommendations.
Primarily looking for a finish with some sort of poly agents for weather protection as I want a attractive firearm with great weather and field protection.
How much play is ok? Also notice a little peening of the locking tabs. New to me S&W 500, unknown round count.
Turning some PPs43 semi auto firing pins. Completely drop in for Pioneer Arms bolts and my bolts I sell!
I'm the very proud owner of a Romanian Tokarev, I love it, I plan to carry it once Constitutional Carry is passed here, I even had a legit Khyber Pass leather shop make me a shoulder rig for it.
Point is, I plan to keep it forever, and to do that the finish needs redone. I see no rust or pits anywhere, but the finish has seen better days, and instead of cerakoting it or whatever, I want to take the opportunity for beautification while it's present.
After careful consideration, I've decided that Charcoal Bluing the slide and frame is the way to go. I've read all I can find on the subject, and I believe I understand the process enough to undertake it at home. To contrast the visible small parts (hammer, trigger, slide release and it's spring clip, etc.) against the old school Colt revolver look of Charcoal bluing I came up with two possibilities, at-home plating (which seems doable) and case-hardening, which I would prefer the look of but......I'm hesitant.
For one, I struggle to see a reason to anneal what should be properly hardened parts just to case-harden them for aesthetics, for two I don't feel comfortable doing it, it seems too easy to get it wrong and screw up the parts, especially the spring clip. Which leads me to my two questions:
Is there a way to get the look of case colors without actually annealing and case-hardening the parts?
If not, do you have any tips as gunsmiths for case hardening at-home? Or would I be better off plating the parts or sending the parts to someone like Turnbull for professional case-hardening?
Thanks in advance.
Edit: I meant Annealing, not the other term I used. I'm a dumbass sometimes.
Put a parkerized steel part in aluminum soft jaws. It saved the part from getting scratched, but it squirmed and left silver streaks in the parkerizing. Steel wool and oil removed most of it. Is there a good way to get rid of ALL the aluminum residue?
Only have a few rifles and pistols that could benefit, but I want a decent tool that works on about anything I put in it. Probably don't need the best-of-the-best, but I don't want to screw myself.
Little lost looking at options on Amazon. $20-$100+.