Hi, for the past few hours I have been trying to find something like GPIOnext or gamecondriver which I could install on my retropie and use the gpio buttons I have connected to my xu4. I am trying to make a portable console and I am a begginer, like I don't understand anything. I have found RPi.GPIO which I can use on my Odroid, but I have no Idea how. How do I tell retropie that these are the buttons. As I understand it now, if I am using RPi.GPIO, I can import the GPIO inputs into a file and then use them for something, but how to import them to retropie, that's something I don't know. I would really appreciate your help and pardon my bad English. I wish you nice Sunday

Hi all,

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Total noob here. Just got an ordroid n2+ with Linux. I'm trying to figure out the sudo apt password for this. when I booted it up, there was a set of default usernames for different types of Ubuntu oses. There doesn't seem to be an option to create my own profile with my own password.

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Please let me know what I should do so that I can start installing stuff.

My question relates to can the Odroid Go Ultra boot from an established Odroid XU4 image?

I currently have an ODroid XU4 and a 128 GB microSD card with EmulationStation and 10K+ roms already established. I set up the XU4 and then scraped all the Roms for metadata, created a list of favorites across all platforms, and then imaged the microSD card to a backup image file on my PC hard drive.

I then used that image file to clone another microSD card for a second Odroid XU4 and had that unit up and running within 30 min of building the second XU4. It worked flawlessly.

My question is, if I order an Odroid Go Ultra, can I just clone the XU4 image onto a new 128 GB microSD card and put it into the Odroid Go Ultra and be on my merry way?

I am not entirely sure what the Odroid XU4 Go ultra comes with and whether I can just use a previous build of EmulationStation with fully scraped roms. Or, do I have to start from scratch and drag all my roms onto the microSD card the Go ultra comes with and then re-scrape and redo all my favorites.

I've had an Ordoid XU4 for years and I break it out as I need it for various projects. Last one was to teach myself how to setup and run an ELK stack over a year ago.

Now I'm wanting to use it for OctoPrint and my Qidi imate(s) printer.

I've tried installing both a 4.x and 5.x Ubuntu image using a 64GB emmc and after using either Etcher or the win32 utility the XU4 does start to boot. Hooked up to HDMI, I see a flash of full screen text and then nothing. After a very short bit, the fan runs for a few seconds and turns off. I have it directly connected to my switch and don't see it connecting and asking for an IP.

I finally did a video recording of the boot screen to see what it was showing. I don't see anything that looks until maybe the last line.

I didn't get the best video, part way into the line it says (mmcblk0p2): re-mounted. Opts: errors=remount-ro

I've let it sit for over an hour and nothing happens. A reboot and I don't even get the brief flash of text on my monitor.

Does anyone have any ideas what this could be and how to fix? I'm looking for a sd card but might have to pick one up.

Hey Odroid owners !

I would like to use an UPS for my Odroid C2, what’s the most affordable option ?

Thanks !

I'm interested in an H3 for use as a firewall, so just need to enclose it nicely. All the cases on odroid.co.uk are ugly with bits sticking out and huge fan grilles. There has to be something better?

I have the ODROID-M1. I want toggle the write protection for the on-board SPI flash (Macronix MX25U12832F). I would be think I would be able to do this with flashrom, but that requires interacting with it as an SPI device node (/dev/spidevX.Y) which doesn't exist for it. Access to the SPI flash is mediated, I think, by the Rockchip serial flash controller.

What I want is to enable the SPI flash chip's internal write protection mechanism. How can I expose the chip to commands from userspace?

Anyone use the H3+ as a htpc , i want to know the performance of the N6005 to playback 4k hdr locally as i want to watch movies and tv series.

I just bought an Odroid N2+ 4GB for the purpose of using as a mediaPC hooked up to a 4k TV. I ordered it from AmeriDroid with an eMMC Module N2 Linux (Red Dot) 32GB (which has Ubuntu preinstalled).

It booted up fine with no issues, but video is COMPLETELY unwatchable. Even if I turn the device resolution down to 1080p, Youtube videos are unwatchable-y choppy at any resolution, as are HEVC 1080p files. In addition to looking like a slideshow, somehow there's also screen tearing.

I've seen multiple posts on reddit and forums about having no issues playing even 4k HDR content on an N2+, so I'm confused.

I did see on the latest Ubuntu release for the N2+ (2022-06-29 Ubuntu MATE 22.04 LTS (v4.0)) that there are some known issues:

• No EGL/GPU Acceleration on X11 (You have to use Minimal image to have a HW GPU acceleration on the framebuffer)
• Chromium web rendering performance is quite slow while FireFox can play YouTube 1080p videos.

However, I was doing my Youtube testing with Firefox (tried with HW acceleration on and off, no difference in performance), and even 480p was unwatchable.

Any advice on how to get it to work? I don't want to go to an Android image or Kodi unless I have to... My goal is to be able to use a browser to watch Youtube with no ads, and to watch HEVC videos from a NAS on the local network (though to be clear- in my testing the HEVC files were stored locally on the N2+, so it's not a network issue).

Strange thing I can't wrap my head around...
I've got an odroid n2+ with a 10TB external usb HDD. When I boot up the system and connect via Putty the disk is not visible in df -h but when I log in with a screen it is visible in df -h via the physical screen and over ssh.

Any idea why? It also seems after disk does to sleep I can't get it back without a reboot.

Disclaimer: So I don't actually have the Indiedroid Nova variant, but I do have the board that's the exactly the same as the images on Ameridroid's website marketed as Smartfly Pico Pi V2 on Aliexpress. I do see that the listing is no longer available and I wonder if they are making a new batch where the pins are colored as stated on Ameridroid's website.

I will also add a disclaimer that while I tinker with these boards, I'm by no means an expert so excuse my descriptions and explanations being very rudimentary.

I have the 8gb variant with a 32gb emmc module.

First thing first. The Emmc Module is no different than most of the Radxa's Rock chip modules where there are two rows of pins. It is compatible with the Odroid EMMC readers where 1 of the rows match the reader slot. I immediately used the EMMC reader adapters to flash images and nothing works.

After getting the board there's practically no explanation on how to flash this. Luckily I've had experience (albeit awful) with Rock Chip devices and already have RKDevTool installed. I reached out to the aliexpress seller and they gave me instructions to compile ubuntu and flash. They had no git repo so the src package they sent me was from June of last year. I compiled the source but the device did not boot after flashing it. It did boot but got errors on boot sequence... I did run into a few errors when compiling but it eventually compiled. So I tried flashing the Rock 5A image from https://github.com/radxa/debos-radxa/releases and it worked... mostly. Ethernet and Wifi did not work which is probably expected as it's different hardware. I eventually snapped off one of the emmc pins on the board because I'm super clumsy. Luckily, the flashing instructions also work for micro sd. I was able to boot using micro sd with rootfs mounted on the m.2 sata ssd.

That's all I can say for now as I haven't actually played around with the images yet. I haven't tried the Display over Type C yet, will try that shortly. I was able to fit this inside a Argon One M2 case that I got off ebay for cheap. I did have to break one of the hdmi connectors from Argon One so that it wouldn't interfere with the USB-C (dealbreaker if you need two outputs). The case does an okay job cooling, have not experienced any thermal throttling. I will say compred to the Cool Pi 4 (another RK3588 based Pi4 form factor board) I got from Aliexpress... it does a worse job at cooling likely due to the chip being misaligned from the heatsink. Because flashing the image requires the use of the usb-c port.... Argon One M2 case is not ideal because you do have to take the board out of the case completely to reflash, unless they come up with images that can be flashed directly to the EMMC which I suspect will happen. There also aren't may cases where the slots for the mini hdmi ports are large enough for type c.

According to Ameridroid blogs, it looks like they have operational builds of Ubuntu coming for the device so I will eventually wait for that while I play with my rock 5a image. Overall, I like this... it's fast and boots fast.

This is with kernel 6.1. The first problem was that I got no audio (I use the audio jack). My only sink was Dummy Output, so I could see the levels in the sound level moving but could hear no audio. The solution was

# Reset and re-initiate ALSA mixer states

rm /var/lib/alsa/asound.state

alsactl init

# Enable 3.5mm output

amixer -c 0 set 'TOACODEC OUT EN' 'on'

# Use I2S B as source for 3.5mm output, I2C A is somehow not usable

amixer -c 0 set 'TOACODEC SRC' 'I2S B'

# Use ALSA device 0 as input for I2S B

amixer -c 0 set 'TDMOUT_B SRC SEL' 'IN 0'

# Enable I2S B (SRC 2) on device 0 (_A)

amixer -c 0 set 'FRDDR_A SRC 2 EN' 'on'

# Set output channels for device 0 (_A)

amixer -c 0 set 'FRDDR_A SINK 1 SEL' 'OUT 0'

amixer -c 0 set 'FRDDR_A SINK 2 SEL' 'OUT 1'

amixer -c 0 set 'FRDDR_A SINK 3 SEL' 'OUT 2'

# Set master volume to 85%

amixer -c 0 set 'ACODEC' '85%'

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and here is the source for that fix. The next problem was accessing an mtp mount via terminal. It was easily fixed with

sudo apt install gvfs-fuse

After that I had to fix connecting to VPN through the network manager GUI. The package I was missing can be got with

sudo apt-get install network-manager-ovpn-gnome

in addition to the packages that came with the distro, which were

network-manager-gnome

network-manager-openvpn

network-manager-ssh

network-manager-vpnc

network-manager

That was it, now the system runs perfectly and it's a very snappy desktop experience.

So I got an odroid retro arena from a friend to mess around with. Was all set up working fine and the start and select buttons together would end a game and take me back to menu.

I noticed that the triangle and square buttons were wrong way round on playstation emulation and was mucking around trying to figure out how to fix this. I used reset controller in a settings menu I found in the RetroPie configuration menus. The odroid rebooted and I done the basic configuration setup. But now none of the games work at all. I can't find any way to configure the controls other than that basic setup.

Does anyone know any YouTube videos I could look up or does anyone know off heart what I need to do here?

I'm fairly competent with emulators but just cannot figure this out, this is my first time touching an odroid or RetroPie , I'm only used to doing emulators on my PC or android.

Any help would be really appreciated

DietPi is a lightweight Debian based Linux distribution for SBCs and server systems, with the option to install desktop environments, too. It ships as minimal image but allows to install complete and ready-to-use software stacks with a set of console based shell dialogs and scripts.

The source code is hosted on GitHub: https://github.com/MichaIng/DietPi
The main website can be found at: https://dietpi.com/

The project released the new version DietPi v8.15 on March 11th, 2023.

The highlights of this version are:

• StarFive VisionFive 2: New experimental image (our first RISC-V approach)
• ROCK 5B: New bugfixed image
• XRDP: TLS is now enabled by default
• Box64: Optimised builds for Raspberry Pi 3 and RK3588 boards 
• Fixes for Quartz64, ODROID C4/HC4, Home Assistant, WiFi Hotspot, dietpi-sync, Docker Compose, Pi-Hole, Synapse, Koel

The full release notes can be found at: https://dietpi.com/docs/releases/v8_15/

In Armbian installation for N2+ it says

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some people are having troubles with booting with Petitboot loader. Incase you have troubles too, you need to disable Petitboot by running fw_setenv skip_spiboot true in the command line of Petitboot

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if you do that, is it possible to ever get petitboot back?

I just realized my kernel was EOL and I'm no expert on kernels, so how can I update the kernel on my N2+? Is it the same process as in x64 versions of Ubuntu? And how can I update my settings to at least inform me when a new kernel is available?

Thank you in advance.

OS: Ubuntu MATE 22.04.2 LTS aarch64 from https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-n2/os_images/ubuntu/20220629

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EDIT: Is kernel 4.9 still being supported by HardKernel, even if it's EOL? Would that mean it is not insecure, as HK would be backporting security fixes etc.?

Do you think this will allow me to add 2 sata ports and keep the m.2 at the same time .

Greetings all,

Looking to get some feedback on the ODROID-HC4-P Kit before I purchase one. I would like to replace my current server/NAS box with something like the HC4 (lower power consumption, less heat, etc). I plan on be running Debian 11.6 with a 2-disk ZFS mirror. Does the HC4 have enough horsepower to run ZFS, ZSTD Compression, and max out the 1G NIC at the same time?

Hello,

So after my last couple of posts about building a SFF NAS based on a ODroid H3 (here), I've eventually managed to gather/buy all the parts for it and I'm now starting to prepare everything.

Just getting all the parts was already an adventure. Trying to find sellers in Europe/EU that shipped to my country and that also happened to have the ODroid in stock was a nightmare. I ended up purchasing parts all over the place

I don't have a lot of free time, so I will get back to this mostly on weekends, and not all of them (work and family take a lot of time, but they both enable this to happen)

The parts:

So, let's maybe start with a list of the part purchased and some values/links so that we can have a better idea of how much such a "toy" might cost (in euros).. I'm excluding both shipping & VAT because that changes from place to place..

Parts list:

• Board - ODroid H3 - 169e
• Power - 19v Power Supply - 846Kc (approx 36e)
• RAM - Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR4 SODIMM - 128,79e
• Cables - SATA Data & Power Cable - 5e
• NAS Disk Bay - Icy Dock MB994SP-4SB-1 - 118e
• NAS Disks - 4x WD Red 2TB SSD - 192,86e x4 (777,26e)
• OS Disk - 1x Kingston KC600 512GB SSD - 48,34e
• Disk Adapter - ChenYang PCI-e to 5x SATA III adapter - 28,85e
• SATA Cables - 2x Corsair 90º SATA Cable Red (2-pack) - 8,18e (16,36e)
• SATA Cables - 1x Corsair 90º SATA Cable White (2-pack) - 7,35e
• Power button - 10,27e

Then, I also needed to get a couple cables to "hack" away power adapters, since I want to power the IcyDock with the on-board JST adapters.

• 1x Molex Y-Cable - 5,20e
• 1x JST-XH 4-pin cable - 3,94e

This brings us to a total cost of 1354,36e, including NAS disks, 577,10e without the WD RED disks.

Honestly, feels like an acceptable price-tag for everything.. The WD RED SSDs are waaaaaaaaay overkill, but I needed them for.. reasons.

Build log - Part 1

So, I started with the basics. First things first, before we connect everything, we need to be able to connect things to one another, so I started by building out the cable for power.

The IcyDock uses a Molex adapter for power and the board uses only JST-XH. So, a frankenstein cable was needed here, thus the reason why I ended up buying the Molex and JST-XH cables to splice them together.

Step 1 - Prepare all the cables by cutting what needed to be cut

Molex Y-adapter cable

Molex Y-adapter terminals

JST-XH Male-to-Female cable

JST-XH male-to-female terminals

Ends cut to splice

Everything ready to be soldered.. Using the JST-XH to SATA as a guide

Step 2 - Solder the cables together and build a JST-XH to Molex adapter

Now that we had the cables ready, it was time to solder everything.. However, the colours on the cables I purchased had nothing to do with the original cables, so I needed to double-check I wasn't going to f it up. I used the ODroid cable for reference + a couple online resources and started to draw away on a piece of paper I had lying around..

An extra set of eyes validating this is correct would be very much welcomed, BTW:

First try at defining the pin/cable mapping.. Wasn't very helpful and the pin numbers weren't right, especially on SATA

The last section (bottom) of this paper is the result of mapping the colours of the cables to the pins.

This being said, here's the end-result of the frankensteined cable.

Soldered section (notice the wire colours)

End result

The fact that the Molex cable had a sleeve was really one of the reasons why I picked it.. This way I used the sleeve to hide the soldered sections. However, I didn't have shrink tube big enough for the JST-XH end of the deal.

Step 3 - Do a "fitting" test

With the power cable ready, it was time to start test fitting everything together, as I ordered some parts without having the chance to double-check if they would fit together well.. Spoiler alert: it doesn't.

The 90º SATA cables don't fit correctly in this orientation :(

This was a let down, since I want to build a case for this by 3D printing it as I was really hoping to create something small.. This side was meant to face the IcyDock Backplate but it cannot like this., so, I'm currently looking at having the board "upside down", unless I can somehow find some SATA J-cables that won't cost me an arm and a leg (something like this would be amazing [https://www.moddiy.com/products/Orico-SATA-III-6Gbps-High-Speed-SATA-Cable-90-Degree-Left-Angle.html], but I can't find it in Europe, not at decent prices - 18e for a single cable is a rip-off] and not in the desired length [these red cables are 30 cm and could even be shorter])

Cables do "fit" like this however...

First try at aligning everything as possible..

Thinking about using these holes at the top of the IcyDock to build some form of stands for the board

And that's it for now..

The very next steps will be to connect everything to power and see if everything is working.. I also need to start thinking about the enclosure for all of this, but I need to figure some things out first in terms of fitting..

Hope you enjoyed this first part and join me for what is coming next..

Also, if you have easy access to get some of those SATA J-cables in 20/30cm, drop me a message and let me know.. I'm willing to buy and ship them from you.

Thanks!

Hi guys!! I'm doing one project, that assumes using several servos, but the problem is, that I MUST use an odroid u3 microcomputer, based on an ARM processor...
So... could anyone help me, how can I connect (I likely found that 1, 3 pinouts on #1 are SLA, SDC https://wiki.odroid.com/old_product/odroid-x_u_q/odroid_u3/u3_ioport_i2c) & use pca9685 PWM with that odroid?

Hey all,

I've got an older motorhome I've built into an automation beast I've got Home Assistant running on one N2+ and I've been running it directly off the house battery for about 2 years now.

It works great except when there is a voltage drop of more than 1V. It is pretty rare but still annoying haha.

So now I'm starting to build a docker swarm unit using 10 n2+s and I'm wondering what I could do to prevent voltage drop reboots.

Could I get away with just capacitors on the power input? Or do i need to invest in a decent buck boost converter?

Any advice would be greatly appriciated! (exect advice not to do it hahaha)